Paris shone with subtly this season as established designers experimented with new silhouettes and a fresh crop of creatives-including Koché and Atlein-introduced their vision for the urban sophisticate. Although there weren't exactly pyrotechnics on the runway, the City of Light shimmered with the obvious skill and vision of the world class labels who show there.

Here are some of our highlights.

Demna Gvsalia's first Balenciaga collection sent reverberations through the fashion world. Simultaneously showing that nothing and everything was sacred, Gvsalia played with the storied house's reputation for angular suiting by creating sloped shouldered and hunchbacked silhouettes, disfiguring classic shapes to inject an irreverent sensibility

2. Quilting got out of hand and onto the face at CHANEL, where eyeshadow imitated the house's historic textile construction-most recognizable on its 2.55 bag. Puffy eyes will be all the rage this fall? The sleep deprived masses can hope.

3. Amidst talk about Hedi Slimane's possible exit from Saint Laurent, the rocker provocateur revisited the harsh glam of the '80s with a collection of tight mini dresses, strong shoulders, big belts and stiletto pumps. The collection received mixed reviews but ended on a heartfelt note-seriously, a heart-shaped fur coat closed the show.

4. Diversity on the runway was not only a hot conversation topic but was actually exhibited at many shows. And diversity didn't only refer to race, but also extended to include age. Undercover, for example, had models ranging from teenagers to stylish septuagenarians.

5. Vetements shirts got surly. We can't show the the choice words the label had on their most abrasive top, but many had a take-it-or-leave-it mentality that goes with Vetements' standoffish streetwear.

6. Notable absences at Christian Dior and Lanvin contributed to safe, placeholder collections that seemed to pay careful tribute to Raf Simons and Alber Elbaz's contributions during their tenure at the fashion houses.

7. Leather bike jackets were the de rigueur defense against the elements at PFW. While faux and real fur dominated in London, Paris put on this edgy outer layer at times of both rain or shine.

8. The beyond-thigh-high stocking boot was out in force both on the runway and in the street. Balmain sent many of its warrior women models down the runway shod in pastel suede versions of this sexy style. On the street, color was also in favor as was suede.

9. Jacquemus continued its playful reign over the runway with exaggerated boxed suits that seem to enclose rather than clothe their wearers and dresses that hung off to the side or above the shoulders in a levitating manner.

10. Riccardo Tisci's Givenchy show and Karl Lagerfeld's CHANEL walkway gave more attendees front row seats by erecting sprawling paths that twisted and turned in front of their expansive audiences. Givenchy's Egyptian-inspired designs suited the labyrinthine set, which felt like a sub terrain trip beneath a pharaoh's tomb.