Undercover | Paris Fashion Week

Undercover | Paris Fashion Week

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If anyone in fashion can stage a show inclusive of Lou Reed, The Wizard of Oz and crazy cat women of a certain age, it's Jun Takahashi of SPACE brand Undercover. On one hand, he was the subject of a recent immersive retrospective at a prestigious Tokyo art gallery and is a long-time friend and colleague of Comme des Garçons' Rei Kawakuboon and on the other, he's a streetwear icon and an ex-punk. Not that those things are mutually exclusive, just that Jun is an artist who compromises a high/low mix of technical beauty, achingly enigmatic originality and clothes you want to make a hip-hop/skateboarding music video in.

Basically, he contains multitudes-all of which are so perfectly fine-tuned they end up relating even when it seems like they shouldn't.

A few days after a show that the New York Times described as "poetic," we visited the showroom to get a look at the wonderfully disparate elements all together in one room.

First off, here's Olivia Kim and Raul Becerra talking post-show about what they saw-and heard (because Undercover shows typically include very good musical references):

http://blogs.nordstrom.com/fashion/files/2016/03/Olivia-Talking-Undercover.m4a

Jun basically made the bomber relevant in his early '90s debut, so it's no wonder the jacket continues to show up in different iterations in his collections-and here, bearing the Lou Reed reference from Trainspotting that our buyers mentioned in the clip above.

But in the showroom it was cool to investigate all the ways the MA-1 was refreshed and renewed. Next fall, the staple is meant to be cinched and belted and all tied-up with three-dimensional rucksacks, collage and cat prints, and decadently cozy fabrications.

As cool as it was to see all the collection's ready-to-wear references in person while Raul and Sarah built next season's order (and while the show video played on a monitor-which we, in turn, show in the video here), the real coupe was checking out the show pieces-those Maleficent-like golden fairies with their thorny headpieces and woodland ballgowns.

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-Laura Cassidy

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